Of course, there are challenges to catering whatever the season or venue. What happens when you drop part of a dish, or the souffle does not rise, the cake sinks in the middle or certain ingredients are inadequate? However, over and above these year-round hiccups which caterers learn to navigate around, there are also specific [...]
Author Archive: Gastro
Restaurant review: Market Café, London E8
Neighbourhood restaurant Market Café serves the residents of Hackney from early morning right through to supper 2 Broadway Market, London E8 (020 7249 9070). Meal for two, including wine and service, £80 Every restaurant in Hackney serves breakfast. It’s the law. They just have to, because without it the vanguard of our creative industries would [...]
Restaurant review: New Sum Ye, Birmingham
For gastro-porn Cantonese meats with absolutely no frills, head for Birmingham’s tiny Chinatown Arcadian Centre, 70 Hurst Street, Birmingham (0121 622 1525). Meal for two, including service, £25. Anybody who is at all serious about their lunch will be haunted by the same terror: that however good the food they are eating right now, there [...]
Restaurant review: Incanto
Incanto has the potential to be a really good restaurant. But first the kitchen staff has to learn to calm down 41 High Street, Harrow-on-the-Hill, Middlesex (020 8426 6767). Meal for two, including wine and service, £120 There are great dish ideas. There are bad dish ideas. And then there are some that fall under [...]
The signals sent by signature dishes
Talked-about specialities are often the reason customers visit certain restaurants. Do you feel compelled to try signature dishes? Signature dish. There’s something old-school and stolidly Escoffier about that phrase, suggesting carpeted dining rooms and soaring toques, curly moustaches and copperplate menus. It carries a uniquely cheffy vanity. They are vital to almost every restaurant, and [...]
Readers’ travel tips: bistros in France
Get stuck into andouillette in Paris or tarte tatin in Toulouse with these recommendations from Been there readers on the best bistros in France • Add a tip for next week and you could win a digital camera WINNING TIP: Le Colombier, Toulouse Le Colombier is a lovely family-run restaurant away from the city’s tourist [...]
Catering In Summer
Of course, there are challenges to catering whatever the season or venue. What happens when you drop part of a dish, or the souffle does not rise, the cake sinks in the middle or certain ingredients are inadequate? However, over and above these year-round hiccups which caterers learn to navigate around, there are also specific [...]
Morgan Spurlock: ‘I wasn’t the best looking kid – I was just tenacious’
At one of his regular New York haunts, the film-maker explains why he loves risk-taking and the British sense of humour Arriving at Balthazar in New York’s SoHo, there is a lunchtime crowd hovering near reservations, a combination of wide-eyed tourists who want a glimpse of real New Yorkers, and the pushy New Yorkers who [...]
Performance dining: just a stage?
Is a little performance and spectacle a welcome addition to restaurant dining, or just a pain in the neck? It’s not often that I take my seat at a restaurant out of breath and disoriented but the Secret Restaurant prides itself on the punter’s total immersion into the setting – on the night I visited, [...]
Butley Orford Oysterage
What the Oysterage lacks in frills it more than makes up for with its flavoursome, no-nonsense cooking Orford, Suffolk (01394 450 277). Meal for two, including drinks and service, £70 It would be hard to describe the Butley Orford Oysterage as pretty, especially on a deep midwinter’s day when even by lunchtime the light looks [...]


